Answers to questions almost every driver had.
It was great to see old friends, make new ones, and help a couple of drivers out. After talking to a couple of hundred people, the problems and issues that everyone is having will be reviewed here. No matter what radio you have and no matter how big it is, if your antenna, stud, and coax are as old as your favorite work boots, you are going to destroy your radio! You might be able to get away with it for a while, but it will eventually burn up.
STRYKER 955, 655, 447
The beauty of these 3 models is that they are self-preserving. They can be programed to shut down at high SWRs where it will stop transmitting and flash “High SWRs”. I’m trying to get into the software and want to change it to flash “ASSHOLE”, but they won’t let me. The 447 will flash E4 and also stop transmitting with a high SWR issue.
All 3 models can also be programed to shut down with low or high voltages. More to the fact, I send them out set to show your name and rotate to the voltage. You can change this feature with the FNC button to show the name, the voltage, or both. Stick with both. It saved a couple of drivers when they noticed the voltage drop to 11 volts and went” ut oh, I got me a truck problem”.
If your radio has an antenna light or SWR warning light like a Cobra 29, Connex 33 HPC, or Galaxy 66V3, if it lights up, that’s not telling you your antenna is working. It’s the idiot light version of an SWR meter that’s telling you to stop talking, you’re gonna blow shit up! 85% of all radio repairs are from bad antenna, stud or coax. Be smart and have them checked out. I’ve had drivers tell me “yeah but I can hear everyone, I just can’t get out.” To receive, you can basically stick the coax in your ass and you’ll hear. Just don’t do that when you try to transmit. Rectal Rf burns will hurt, and please don’t ever share that with anyone except a medical professional and your therapist.
What I’m trying to get at, is that when a radio has a programable feature that makes it self-preserving, you might not have to ever buy another radio. Also, I look for a radio to be loud, proud, and obnoxious (when need be) and Stryker has it. Watch it with the 497 though. It’s not self-preserving and should be wired directly to the battery (it draws a lot of amps).
Antennas
I would like to see you run stainless. But, if you drive in low laying shit or driveways, go with fiberglass. Stainless antennas are more efficient but if you’re going to mangle it, where in a week it will be bent like a backwards Z, go with glass. I’d hate to see you drop a buck and only have to replace it in no time.
Antenna coil – if you have a Stryker SRA 10, Stryker SR2K, Wilson 2000/5000, Hustler SCB, or any antenna that has a coil on it, the coil has to be above the roof line. If not, you’ll lose your mind trying to tune it, (if it can even be tuned at all below 2.5:1). Also, if you have an antenna with a coil, no matter how new it is, do the following:
Take a 5/8 and 9/16 wrench, remove the antenna from the stud and shake the coil next to your ear. If you have water in it, it’s shot, and the coil is being shorted out. You ain’t talking, and you are beating the shit out of your radio.
While you are there, might as well take the stud off and replace it. There are too many dissimilar metals and galvanic action will happen. Keep in mind, nylon bushing is on TOP.
Coax
Factory coax is garbage. Get away from it. W9 or 8, Pete 359, 79, 89, they are easy as shit to replace. Go to my Instagram, #nbsradio1, or website, nbsr.online for the down and dirty method of changing it, or give me a call and I’ll talk you through it. Might take you 12 minutes.
Tune it!
The chances that you have an antenna analyzer might be slim to none. If you do, cool. If you don’t you can use the one built into your radio. The Stryker 655 and 955 aren’t bad and will get you running so that nothing gets destroyed.
Record your SWRs on channel 1, 19 and 40.
Low on 1, high on 40 – shorten the antenna. Go easy. It’s a pain in the ass, but just a little at a time.
Low on 40, high on 1 – lengthen the antenna.
Go to 19 and balance it out to where you get the lowest reading.
The Low Side Curve Ball: if you talk on the low side of 19 (26.735)(Band C) and on regular 19 (27.185)(Band D), tune for the lowest SWR on channel 1, Band D. If you want a detailed explanation of why, give me a call. But I’ll make you glaze over, and you’ll have to tell me to shut the fuk up.
In conclusion, I try to get a ton of information to you, the driver. I share what I know for free and give detailed information of how to make and keep your shit in proper working order. Be careful who you listen to, there’s a lot of snake oil out there.
Mark